How to Install Custom Side Cutout Kits for Wall Pads
We’ve already covered the basics of how to install custom cutouts in wall pads—but what happens when things get a little trickier? What if that electrical box or thermostat isn’t smack in the center of the pad, but tucked off to the side instead?
This guide provides a step-by-step walkthrough for installing side cutouts, helping you achieve a professional fit around wall-mounted fixtures without compromising the look, feel, or safety of the padding.
What Are Custom Side Cutouts?
Custom side cutouts are specially designed modifications to wall padding that accommodate permanent fixtures like outlets, switches, or control panels. Positioned off-center—usually along the mat’s edge—these cutouts require careful planning and precise installation to ensure a perfect fit without compromising the pad’s durability or appearance.

Installing side cutouts takes a bit more finesse, involving extra folding, careful measuring, and patience. But don’t worry—no expert origami skills are needed. With the right tools and techniques, anyone can achieve a clean, professional look.
Each kit includes separate hemmed vinyl pieces to neatly cover exposed edges for polished, seamless, and long-lasting results.
Tools Needed
To complete the installation, have these ready:
- Multitool or rotary cutting tool (circular saw is recommended for cutting wood back)
- Sharp utility knife or box cutter
- Staple gun & staples
- Staple remover
- HH-66 vinyl cement (included with kit)
- Painter’s tape
- 61" long hemmed vinyl piece (2 include in kit)
Step-by-Step Installation Guide:
Step 1: Begin by flipping the wall pad over so that the wood backing is facing up. Use a measuring tape to determine the precise location and dimensions of the cutout you need.
Carefully mark this area on the wood surface with a pencil or chalk. Be sure to double-check your measurements to ensure the opening aligns exactly with your wall feature.
Step 2: Using a staple remover, take out the staples along the edge where you intend to make the cut. Also remove a few staples from the adjacent sides near the corners. This will allow the vinyl to be gently unfolded and pulled back without tearing.
As you remove the vinyl, take note of how it was originally folded—especially at the corners—so that you can recreate the folds later during reassembly.
Once the staples are removed, gently pull the vinyl away from the foam and wood backing to create space for additional protection while working.
Step 3: With the vinyl safely moved aside, begin by using a suitable cutting tool—such as a circular saw or rotary tool—to carefully cut through the wood backing along the marked lines for the cutout. This will form the basic shape and size of the side opening.
After removing the wood backing, use a small knife or box cutter to carefully cut and remove the foam inside the cutout area. Cut just deep enough to expose the back of the vinyl without slicing through it.
Once both the wood and foam are removed, reposition the vinyl back over the area. Begin restapling the vinyl to the wood backing, working in reverse order from where you previously stopped—leaving the area around the new cutout unstapled for now.
Pay close attention to how the corners were originally folded—refold them the same way and staple them securely.
Step 4: To allow the vinyl to fold cleanly around the new cutout, begin by making a straight cut along the side of the vinyl that runs perpendicular to the wood backing, stopping at the edge of the opening.
Then, make a centered V-shaped cut on the front-facing vinyl above the cutout. These two cuts will form a Y-shaped pattern, creating three vinyl flaps: one center flap and two angled side pieces.
Step 5: Fold the center flap over the edge of the wood opening and staple it securely to the back of the panel. Then, fold the two angled flaps inward, wrapping them tightly around the corners of the cutout—much like folding wrapping paper over the corner of a box.
Be sure to pull the vinyl smooth and tight to avoid wrinkles. Staple each angled flap to the back of the wood to achieve a neat, secure finish.
Step 6: Before inserting the hemmed vinyl piece into the opening, apply painter’s tape around the inside edge of the cutout to protect the vinyl surface from glue overspill.
Then, use HH-66 vinyl cement and apply it to both the interior edge of the cutout and the back side of the hemmed vinyl piece. Insert the liner carefully into the opening, press it firmly in place, and allow time for the glue to bond.
Be cautious during this step—HH-66 is a powerful adhesive and any misplaced glue can permanently damage the finish of the vinyl.
Step 7: Once the glue has fully dried, remove the tape and make small incisions at the bottom of the vinyl pieces. This allows you to pull the flaps around the cutout opening and staple them securely to the wood backing. While stapling, be careful not to disrupt the corners you already folded and secured in Step 5.
After securing the flaps, trim away any remaining excess vinyl. Check for any loose edges and re-staple as needed for extra reinforcement. Finally, reinsert any staples you previously removed from around the pad’s perimeter to restore a snug, secure fit.
Don’t forget to refold the vinyl corners to match their original layout—refer to Step 1 if needed.
A Custom Finish, Made to Last
Custom side cutout kits from AK Athletics provide a professional, durable solution for wall padding around fixtures—preserving accessibility without compromising safety or appearance. Whether you’re outfitting a gymnasium, wrestling room, or training facility, our team ensures your wall pads are built to perform.

Need help with your custom order? Contact our sales team at sales@akathletics.com or call (800) 431-4372.
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